Nestled in the heart of Shanghai’s lively Huangpu District within the BFC Bund Financial Center North District, Da Vittorio stands as a bastion of Italian gastronomy. On a sun-dappled Friday noon, after a flurry of morning meetings, I found myself at its doorstep, anticipation in the air. Having been regaled with tales of Da Vittorio’s prowess, I crossed its threshold and stepped into an opulent realm of flavors.
With an impromptu grin, I approached the front desk right at noon, hoping to secure a spot amidst the flavors that had been celebrated far and wide. Serendipity was my ally, granting me a seat without reservation – a fortuitous start that set the tone for an extraordinary culinary journey.
As an Italian, the saga of Da Vittorio was not unfamiliar to me. Hailing from Bergamo in 1966, it had etched its name among Italy’s culinary elite. The legacy of Vittorio Cerea, a visionary who championed fish when meat was the norm, fascinated me. His dedication bore fruit in three Michelin stars, a journey that commenced in 1978, ascending triumphantly over the years. This legacy extended to Da Vittorio – Shanghai, unveiled in 2019, gracing the city’s culinary landscape with a Michelin star in the same year, followed by another in 2020.
Perched on the third floor of the BFC Bund Financial Center North District, the restaurant exuded sophistication.
The interiors interwove warm greens and woods with marble touches, illuminated by crystal chandeliers and stained-glass windows. Through expansive windows, Shanghai’s vibrant cityscape unfolded, a feast for the eyes to complement the imminent feast for the palate.
Opting for the 5-course discovery lunch menu, I embraced the allure of wine pairings. Welcomed by Emanuele Restelli, the restaurant manager and head sommelier, I embarked on a gastronomic odyssey. With meticulous care, he charted the course through this culinary tale.
I was offered a glass of Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvee Prestige Rose Edizione 45 in a stunning glass with a vibrant cherry-red color. The nose explodes with expressive notes of ripe strawberries, creating an intoxicating bouquet. As I took a sip, a rush of fresh strawberry flavors dominated the palate, balanced by a delightful acidity. This rosé sparkler possesses a playful quality – its effervescence is soft and generous, like tiny bubbles dancing on the tongue. Intriguingly, there’s a subtle earthiness that lingers, adding complexity to the wine’s overall charm.
The journey commenced with an amuse-bouche trio, a harmonious dance of flavors:
– Flan di Green Pea and White Asparagus: Delicate brioche-bread crunch crowned a tender green pea and white asparagus flan, adorned with a gel of green ora and asparagus, showcasing subtlety in every bite.
– Szechuan Salmon: Atop a meringue pedestal, marinated salmon embraced the Szechuan pepper’s allure, a symphony of sweet meringue, zesty lemon gel, and savory salmon, a masterpiece of contrasts.
– Tuna Mousse Olive: The olive-shaped tuna mousse, accompanied by Taggiasche olives and Turkish sesame bread, embodied a delightful blend of textures and flavors.
The culinary canvas broadened with an artisanal bread selection:
– Focaccia Pizza Dough: A Chongming Island delight – focaccia pizza dough adorned with succulent cherry tomatoes, an ode to local flavors.
– Puff Bread: An airy creation reminiscent of a delicate cloud.
– Grissini Selection: Crispy classic and rosemary grissini showcased the art of Italian bread-making.
– Sourdough (Pagnotta): A beautifully crafted sourdough with a gracefully restrained acidity.
The journey of taste evolved as Hokkaido Scallops embraced a Coconut and Ponzu Sauce. The ponzu sauce, a zesty soy-based elixir, twirled harmoniously with the scallops’ delicate sweetness, while the coconut’s essence added a tropical flourish.
The gastronomic tale progressed with Roasted New Zealand Scampi, adorned with bell pepper, peas, and capers, a masterful medley of textures and flavors.
Transitioning through flavors, the spotlight shone on Linguine in Fish Soup, a pasta creation resonating with the sea’s essence. Cuttlefish and celery salad added layers of refinement to this maritime ode.
The Roero Arneis, by Bruno Giacosa (Piedmont) 2021, became a faithful companion to the seafood symphony. Its pale yellow hue shimmered gold, hinting at sun-drenched grapes. Aromas unfolded like a bouquet of white peach, honeydew, and citrus. The first sip, light-bodied yet textured, surprised with vibrant acidity. Delicate minerality echoed the briny scallops, while floral notes complemented the lobster’s sweetness. It was a testament to pairing finesse, each element harmonizing beautifully, making every sip and bite an exquisite experience.
The Ridolfi Rosso di Montalcino 2020 proved to be the perfect partner to the crescendo of the meal: a Wagyu M5 Beef Tenderloin. Tilting the glass, the wine revealed a captivating ruby red hue with subtle garnet glints. The first whiff was an intoxicating blend of ripe red fruits, dominated by sweet cherries, and hints of warm spice that tantalized the senses. Taking a sip, the wine unfolded on the palate with surprising elegance. Despite its full body, it maintained a delightful softness and a vibrant acidity that cut through the richness of the Wagyu. The tannins were present but smooth, leaving a lingering warmth that perfectly complemented the cooking jus.
Presented by Chef Alican Dadayli, the beef’s sublime texture was further elevated by the accompanying courgette, aubergine, and peanut tart, creating a truly memorable culinary experience. As someone who enjoys bold reds, I was particularly impressed by the wine’s ability to stand up to the richness of the Wagyu while still maintaining its complexity and balance.
Emanuele returned with a cheese-laden cart, a captivating voyage into dairy indulgence. Formaggio in Paglia, cheese matured in straw, enticed the senses with its rich complexity.
Dessert unfolded like a sweet serenade – a Chinese gem, Domaine Franco Chinois – Petit Manseng 2017, embraced a trio of Banana Cake, Passion Fruit Jelly, and Yuzu Cream. As the golden liquid swirled in the glass, its luscious sweetness was evident even before the first sip. Aromas of honeyed apricot and peach mingled with hints of marmalade, painting a picture of a sun-drenched orchard. The first sip was a burst of vibrant fruit flavors, the sweetness perfectly harmonizing with the tropical notes of the passion fruit jelly and the zesty citrus character of the yuzu cream. The wine’s balanced acidity danced on the palate, cleansing it between bites and leaving a lingering sweetness that echoed the soft, comforting flavors of the banana cake. This exquisite Chinese dessert wine proved to be the perfect ending to a truly remarkable culinary journey.
An Illy espresso, accompanied by petit fours and a cannoli brimming with chantilly cream, marked the finale, a final flourish to a sensory symphony.
Da Vittorio – Shanghai was not a mere restaurant; it was an Italian culinary symphony infused with Shanghai’s skyline, etching indelible memories. The bill of RMB2000 (USD280) was a fitting tribute to the orchestration of flavors, the mastery of ingredients, and the artistic presentation that graced this journey.
In dining experiences, Da Vittorio – Shanghai earned its place as a testament to Italian gastronomy’s prowess, leaving a mark on every fortunate guest. My review resounds with enthusiasm, an unwavering endorsement of a culinary voyage that promises to linger in the hearts of all who partake.
Restaurant Name: Da Vittorio – Shanghai
Chef: Chef Stefano Bacchelli
Head Sommelier:
City: Shanghai
Address: 3rd floor, N3 Building 600 Zhongshan Road East No.2 Shanghai, China
Located in: Huangpu District – The Bund Finance Centre
Awards: 1 Michelin Star