Singapore’s vibrant energy was buzzing even on an early Saturday morning. As I sipped my coffee, my phone buzzed with exciting news: Massimo Bottura, the culinary mastermind behind Osteria Francescana, had just launched his latest project in Dempsey Hill – Torno Subito on February 20, 2024. In colloquial Italian, Torno Subito means “I’ll be right back”, encapsulating its playful and relaxed spirit.
An instant wave of excitement washed over me. I envisioned myself transported to the sun-kissed shores of Italy, indulging in a taste of the “Dolce Vita” era. Without a second thought, I booked a lunch reservation, eager to embark on this culinary adventure.
Dempsey Hill, formerly a British army barracks, is now a chic enclave of upscale shops and restaurants. Nestled amidst this vibrant scene, Torno Subito unfolds like a dream. Stepping inside, I entered a world meticulously crafted by superstar designer Paola Navone. The 1,000-square-meter space pulsated with life. Dazzling colors, beach-inspired patterns, and playful touches like Campari Soda bottle chandeliers evoked the carefree spirit of Italian summers. It felt like stepping onto a movie set from the golden age of Cinecittà!
The heart of the restaurant thrummed with the warmth of the mosaic oven, a symbol of Bottura’s commitment to authenticity. Large, evocative photographs and cinematic settings adorned the walls, further immersing me in the “Dolce Vita” experience. It felt like a nostalgic journey through time, transporting me to the heart of Italian culture and Bottura’s culinary vision.
I opted for the 6-course discovery menu, Ciao Singapore, priced at SGD150 (USD110). The menu, a symphony of Bottura’s culinary genius, mirrored this enchanting atmosphere. Classic Italian dishes are given a refreshing twist, reflecting the era’s innovative spirit. Each plate was a masterpiece, a story waiting to be savored, a perfect example of how Torno Subito reimagines tradition with contemporary flair.
As suggested by the Italian sommelier, I decided to open with a Sauvignon Blanc, Vette di San Leonardo, 2021. Vette is named for the imposing peaks that rise above its Sauvignon Blanc vineyard, and it is the true height of refreshing crispness and earthy minerality. This wine has an aromatic fragrance with the typical hints of white peach, and green peppercorn over a pleasing note of sage.
I started with the amuse-bouche made of 3 small bites: Pappa al Pomodoro, Tartalletta di Baccalà (cod tartlet), and Babà Mantova.
What blew me away was the deep taste of Pappa la Pomodoro, which recalled my childhood, in a creatively remastered plating and topped with Tomato foam. Pappa al Pomodoro is a thick Tuscan bread soup typically prepared with fresh tomatoes, bread, olive oil, garlic, basil, and various other fresh ingredients. It is usually made with stale or leftover bread. While eating it I was singing in my mind “Viva la pappa col pomodoro”, a 1965 song arranged by Luis Bacalov, a fantastic composer that I have been lucky enough to meet in person, and performed by Rita Pavone, a music icon at my grandma’s time.
For my second sampling, I delved into the Baccalà, a preserved cod seasoned with salt. This dish typically boasts a pleasantly flaky texture with an irresistibly intense and unique flavor, never leaning toward the fishy side. In Italy, Baccalà is reserved for celebratory occasions, particularly enjoyed in the weeks leading up to Easter when it takes the place of meat on Fridays. In the Veneto region, located near my upbringing, Baccalà is revered as a true delicacy. The small tartlet I savored was characterized by its delightful crunch, tastefulness, and delicate nature.
Next on the agenda was the Babà. Typically, Babà is a small yeast cake soaked in syrup infused with hard liquor. However, in this instance, there was no alcohol involved. Surprisingly, it wasn’t served as a dessert but rather as an introductory bite accompanied by some pumpkin cream. Mantova, my hometown, is renowned for its pumpkin-based dishes. I found this variation of Babà, named Babà Mantova, to be particularly intriguing and a heartfelt homage to my city.
The subsequent dish made a bold statement with its title: “It’s Not Pasta.” This inventive and playful avant-garde tagliatelle featured finely shaved cuttlefish, bagna cauda, black caviar, and sesame oil. In the Piedmont dialect, “Bagna” translates to sauce, and “cauda” signifies hot. Thus, Bagna Cauda is a hot sauce crafted with anchovies. When perfectly executed, as seen in this case, it delivers a taste that is salty, savory, and garlicky without any overpowering fishiness. It showcased a refined and elevated culinary experience, and I relished every forkful, savoring it alongside my glass of Sauvignon Blanc.
My serving of Upside-down Margherita pizza emerged straight from the visually captivating and vibrant oven. This culinary marvel showcased a dough with exceptionally high hydration, baked to perfection in a Modena gas oven. The final touches included a topping of housemade pesto sauce, fresh tomatoes, and a delightful burrata foam.
Time for a wine change in the middle of the journey.
I let the sommelier choose for me and he suggested a Barbera d’Alba from Luciano Sandrone 2020, a rich and dark wine from Piedmont with high natural acidity, and firm tannins, the wine has aromas of spiced black plums, black cherry jam, and savory herbs and has a gentle kiss of oak and a vibrant, bright, and long finish.
Chef Alessio Pirozzi, a native of Abruzzo in Italy who has worked with Bottura at Osteria Francescana, and then at Torno Subito in Dubai, came himself to humbly deliver and introduce me to the Cavatelli Riviera, a dish of hand-crafted cavatelli pasta with fresh Sicilian red shrimps, red bell pepper sauce and smoked paprika. It was amazing.
Subsequently, I arrived at “Navigando“. In Italian, “Navigando” translates to sailing, and this dish pays homage to all the Mediterranean journeys undertaken by Chef Bottura throughout his life. It combines traditional elements with a more cosmopolitan touch, featuring poached cod, sautéed spinach, beetroot, and a lemon reduction.
Giulia Corinto, the General Manager, in Singapore for almost a decade, came over with the not-to-be-missed “Tiramisubito” dessert, a deconstruction of the iconic tiramisu. It is presented with a pristine chocolate shell infused with espresso, which you are to crack open with a spoon to reveal the rich layers of mascarpone and coffee-soaked biscuit underneath. Fantastic.
With the coffee, my bill ended up at SGD270 (USD200). As I left, I carried a piece of Italy’s golden age within me, a reminder of the joy of discovery and the magic that unfolds when culinary artistry meets imagination.
My lunch at Torno Subito transcended the realm of mere sustenance; it metamorphosed into an extraordinary and indelible experience. Each dish served not only tantalized my taste buds but also acted
Restaurant Name: Torno Subito by Massimo Bottura
Chef: Alessio Pirozzi (for Massimo Bottura)
Head Sommelier:
City: Singapore
Address: 26 Dempsey Rd, #01 02, Singapore 249686
Located in: Dempsey
Awards: nn