Tokyo – Antica Osteria del Ponte

Browsing for Tokyo’s best Italian, Antica Osteria del Ponte kept popping up. So, on a Wednesday afternoon, I ventured to the swanky Marunouchi Building’s 36th floor for a delightful lunch.

Elegance oozed from the wood-paneled foyer, leading to a modern-classic dining room through a glass-walled wine cellar. Breathtaking views of Marunouchi and Tokyo Station unfolded beneath me.

While waiting, I relaxed in a cozy coffee room-like area, before being led to a corner table with the best city panorama. I opted for a set menu, intrigued by hints of “contamination” with local ingredients. The description promised a modern twist on Italian, and indeed, French haute nouvelle influences peeked through here and there. But fear not, fresh, top-notch ingredients, Italian or Japanese, reigned supreme throughout the meal.

A dry, balanced Spumante Metodo Classico, Monsupello Nature, with whispers of green apple, pear, and brioche, set the tone.

Crusty semolina bread with smooth, flavorful organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil followed, alongside an Apulian Burrata revelation—creamy, fresh, and luxuriously adorned with oscietra caviar and basil oil. Next came a playful Stuzzichino: airy carrot mousse with fresh cream, crushed almonds, Jamon Iberico, orange peel, and chives. The mousse’s lightness contrasted beautifully with the ham’s savory depth.

An octopus salad on ricotta cream, flanked by red chicory and crowned with anchovies and Pantelleria capers, marked a refined start to the main courses. The octopus was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the capers added a briny kiss.

For the pasta course, I switched to a Barbera d’Alba Superiore, Palladino 2019, its notes of ripe cherries and licorice are a perfect match for the upcoming Spaghettini Setaro.

Cooked al dente to perfection, the thin strands swam in a rich Miyazaki Jitokko chicken ragout, a burst of flavor further brightened by the sparkle of vezzena, a traditional Italian cheese hailing from Trent

After a stroll around the dining room to soak in the panorama, I returned to a stunning fish course: Red snapper from Kagoshima, renowned for its delicate sweetness and firm texture, lay nestled on a creamy borlotti bean base, gently kissed by drops of 10-year-aged balsamic vinegar from Modena. The result was a symphony of textures and flavors.

Grilled Iwate pork, known for its marbling and tenderness, arrived next, accompanied by a colorful array of grilled vegetables and a fragrant sauce of capers and taggiasca olives. The pork was juicy and flavorful, and the vegetables, cooked to vibrant perfection, offered a delightful contrast.

I closed my lunch with a classic choice Tiramisù. It came with an interesting espresso jelly in the bottom and prepared with biscotti and fresh mascarpone. Petits fours—an orange jelly and a hazelnut cake—were the perfect sweet pairing to my espresso.

While the food presentation leaned towards classic elegance, with less modern theatrics, it didn’t detract from the overall experience.

My single bill came to around JPY 17,000 (USD110), which felt fair considering the quality of the ingredients, the impeccable service (the staff, though not fully fluent in English, made a genuine effort to answer my questions), and the unforgettable views.